As soon as I announced I was going to test the Glidecam HD1000, many people have been leaving me messages waiting. So here's my quick run through, i'm sure you all know how to assemble and balance these things. There's already plenty of video tutorials on balancing, so i'm just going to show you sample use of the HD1000. Thanks for my sister-in-law for allowing me to chase her around while she (not very skilled) rides a skateboard around to show fast moving shots. Yes I was lightly jogging with the Glidecam HD1000 and Canon 5D Mark II + Sigma 20mm F/1.8.
I did a demo of the Glidecam 2000 Pro, and now I normally fly the Glidecam HD4000 which is a beast, but truly a top performer when loaded up. I love the Glidecam HD4000, but sometimes it's a bit overkill. The way I have the Glidecam HD4000 setup, I wouldn't want to run that way without my Steadicam Merlin Vest. So I wanted to really push the smallest Glidecam to see how much weight it can carry. It can balance the 5D Mark II + Sigma 20mm F/1.8 using all the available weights (compact mode). If you extend the base further down, you can shift the center of balance making it more bottom heavy and possibly add-on a very small LED light or Sennheiser MKE400 microphone.
Can you fly with LED light, Microphone, and Zoom H4n + Canon T2i + wide prime lens? Don't quote me on this! I've flown the Glidecam 2000 pro, the HD4000, and now the HD1000. The gimbal handle on the Glidecam stabilizers are very very strong and very fluid even when loaded up. In fact, I think they fly better when they are pushed to their weight capacity limits. Although they won't suggest this I really think you can further 'modify' this unit to accept even more weights at the bottom and really fly a heavy setup with accessories. Yes you can easily move up to the HD2000 or HD4000, but i'm looking for the most compact video stabilizer solution possible. So if it's possible to really load up this HD1000 then i'll be stoked, because you can see how nice and tiny this thing is, making it perfect for travel and tight locations.
Again, this is a bit more pricey than those other stabilizers i've shown, but it's really the best bang for your buck. Most people either don't like flying footage, or don't shoot enough of flying footage to justify the price. If you really like the look, want or need something super fast to balance, you can get away with the HD1000. If you'll be adding some further accessories and added weight this will push you to the HD2000 at least. So don't quote me on the HD1000 being able to handle everything, this is something i'm still working on, and hopefully i'll demo that soon. Glidecam makes great stabilizers. If you've been following my videos, I started with my DIY stabilizer, moved to the Steadicam JR., then to the Steadicam Merlin, tested the Glidecam 2000 Pro, Hague MMC, IndieHardware Stabilizer, Glidecam HD4000, and now Glidecam HD1000. I've tried many and i'm very satisfied with the quality, price point, and fast balance design of the Glidecam HD stabilizers. (HD version! Not Pro models, those kinda suck to balance).
NOTE: Besides being able to carry more weight, the handle has a much broader range of movement. You'll notice several 'Tilt' shots in this video as I point downwards going down the stairs, or point downwards at the skateboard. This type of Gimbal handle also allows for shots pointing upwards or sideways. This was one of the main reasons I left the Steadicam Merlin since it couldn't support these type of shots.
Glidecam has made it very easy to choose from 3 different DSLR stabilizers depending on your needs. I'm not an expert, you should always consult support with the respected manufacturers, but if you have any questions i'd be happy to try and answer them. Here's a link to the Glidecam HD1000 if anyone is interested in dishing out a paycheck to grab one.
If you are planning to balance heavier setups, you can find more information about the other Glidecam HD series stabilizer, how much weight each stabilizer can carry, along with prices following the links below.
Glidecam HD 1000 Smallest Glidecam HD DSLR Video Camera Stabilizer
Glidecam HD 2000 Medium Sized Glidecam HD DSLR Video Camera Stabilizer
Glidecam HD-4000 Largest Glidecam HD DSLR Video Camera Stabilizer
@yasir - No it's not required.
Is waist jacket or arm support necessary with this HD-1000 model ?? or how many minutes can u go without using any support, i m looking for a light weight-easy to handle camera stabilizer for my EOS-6d
@Michael Aers - No the Glidecam HD1000 will be too small. You would be better with the HD2000 for that setup.
I have a Nikon D7000 and D7100 with 35, 50, and 85mm 1.8 lenses. Will the HD 1000 be able to handle all of those lenses combined with the camera weight?
@john - Practice and you'll get stronger. If you have to shoot for a long time, look into a vest system like the new one I posted about: httpss://cheesycam.com/new-dual-arm-stabilizer-vest-vs-steadicam-merlin-vest/
Emm,whats your technique for holding the glider for more than 2-3 mins straight?
I have a 7D and 17-55 mounted, and i cant hold it up for long...even for a minute straight!....
I was wondering which glidecam to get with a T4i and 18-135mm STM Kit Lens.
We (my company) went from the Merlin to the Glidecam HD1000. We made a conscious decision that if we wanted "steady" shots then we simply wouldn't worry about audio. In a pinch we use the Zoom H4N and rig a mic to a wrist strap so that it's pointing roughly wherever we point the camera. The audio workaround is not ideal but the smaller form factor lets us use the Glidecam more often.
All this to say that I had a real struggle at first trying to decide what we should buy. Dealing with "I really want it to do *this* but what if I also ever need to do *this*?" made it almost impossible to pull the trigger on anything until we though about the types of shots we would want to get. By saying "We will only make these kind of shots when use the Glidecam." it made the choice obvious.
As a tip, we followed some advice we saw on another "balance" video and glued 2 tiny bubble levels on to the mount plate. Now we balance in less than 30 seconds.
@Ben Epstein - Yes I think the Microphone would be pushing it a bit too far.
Back to my comment from May 26, will the mic be pushing it because its too high up or because it extends to far out?
Would my setup work with the smaller rode videomic pro?
Ive done alot of research and almost everyone says the glidecam hd1000 wont work with the 5d,WRONG. Just as emm as has used it,i also was able to accomplish the proper balancing on a 5d mark ii with a 50mm f/1.4. Just for the heads up i only had to use 3 weights on each side and i extended the telescoping post,for some reason using 4 weights on each side caused the glidecam to pendulum.Hope this helps someone
@Willem - I think the HD1000 should fly that setup.
Just reading this post, I'm on a real tight deadline and where I live they don't got the hd2000 in stock right now! Now I'm kinda forced to buy the hd1000. Now I'm curious will it hold my setup? Should I send it back after my project and go for the hd2000? Going to fly with a 60D and a samyang 35mm 1.4.
Thanks in advance!
@thatoneguy - The HD1000 will handle the T2i and Tokina just fine. If you have the cash, the Glidecam is the better buy.
hey man, I have a t2i, I dont think im going to go with the flycam, although havent made by final decision yet. im thinking about getting the hd1000 for my camera+11-16mm tokina lens, I was hoping I could fit a rode mic on as well. what do you think.i dont think i can handle the price point of the hd2000 500$ is just absurd amount, so im in between the flycam dslr and glidecam hd1000.
@Ben Epstein - The microphone might be pushing it. It's not just based on the weight, it's also based on how far away the weight is placed from the gimbal. Same concept as to why lowering the post just a few millimeters (without adding any additional weight) will change the balance dramatically.
Do you think the Glidecam 1000 will be able to hand the 7D, Tokina 12-24, and the regular Rode Videomic?
Thanks for the tip....I guess also you were shooting in 30 frames per second, am I right ?
@Alex - If i'm thinking of slowing it down, I'd shoot in 720p and have at least a shutter of 1/120th (or faster), and set my aperture with a wide lens to around F/6.3 (more stuff in focus), and adjust ISO as needed.
@Jonathan - Sounds like the Skyler could handle that setup.
@Emm - Thanks. The Tokina is heavier than my T3i so thatll move the center balance. The total weight is 3.1 lbs (including the Rode mic). But I have lighter lenses that will make my camera's center balance shift.
Would the Skyler be better for that range or the Glidecam HD1000?
I will be doing a good amount of readjusting so I need a stabilizer that is not difficult to balance.
Hi Emm, I see.....but what about if you will do the same video on the same conditions, what setups would you use ?
@Jonathan - The Skyler can carry the same or more weight than the Flycam Nano. It's perfectly fine for DSLR use. By adding a microphone, you are NOT just adding the weight of the microphone. The distance (height) of mounting the microphone changes the dynamic balance.
If you've watched my balancing videos for Flycam and Glidecam, I talk about lowering the sled a few millimeters at a time to make the unit more 'Bottom Heavy'. There is no additional weight being added, but by moving it further from the center of balance it just naturally becomes heavier. The same can be said with adding a microphone. Don't consider it just by the weight alone, but consider how much weight is being added 'further away' from the center of balance.
I would have to test this out, but a T3i is very lightweight already, and it may work.
I just saw your review over the glidecam, skyler minicam, and flycam. You seem to like the Skyler the most, and it appears to be the easiest to balance.
I have a few quick questions...
Could I balance the Skyler with a T3i (barely 1 lb), tokina 11-16, and a rode videomic? I know Skyler is small in size but how much weight can it hold. What stabilizer would you prefer to use with this set?
@Alex - Wow, that was a while back. Not too sure what it was.
Nice video, could you please tell me at what shutter speed and what iso did you shoot, also how many frames per second ?
Canon 5D Mark III + Sigma 20mm on Skyler MiniCam » CheesyCam
@Howard - I don't really count the drop time. What you are looking for is to have the unit just slightly bottom heavy. Of course if it drops fast it's way too bottom heavy.
Just curious what kind of drop time do you prefer, and do you set it the same for different cameras and Glidecam models that you use? Do you prefer a faster or slower drop time depending on the weight and size of the camera?
What performance characteristics do you look for or feel for?
Thanks Emm. Mic would be the MKE 400, at 2.1 oz I think the package would still be about 3 lbs. So I am banking on the HD 1000.
If/when I go bigger I will get another Glidecam, because from what I read it seams better to go small and max out rather than bigger.
Appreciate your input!
@David - The results are the same for Glidecam, it's all practice from the operator. If you get too big a stabilizer, you'll have problems trying to get it balanced. Get the right one for the weight you plan on flying.
@Bill - Small shotgun mic? Go with HD1000 at least, if not HD2000.
Emm...You may have answered this but... With all of your experience, at this point if you had to choose the best all around stabilizer that could fly a canon 60d w/ Tokina 11-16, or even a 5d Mark II w/wide prime, what would it be?
Concerns would be- compact and lightweight and easy set-up. Only additions would be small shotgun mic sometimes.
Dragon, modified Smoothee?
Thank you Emm
@Emm, Thank you for your fantastic sharing.
Mine is 5D mark II with canon 24-70 2.8L, would be fantastic if I can add h4n and ew g3 receiver. I will use it for weddings.
I like merlin weight but I think is for less weight.
It looks like videos with hd4000 looks some better results than hd2000, isn't it?
Which one do you suggest me for quality wedding and "in hand"?
Best wishes Emm!!
Fotografos de bodas Madrid
DIY Glidecam / Monopod Modification » CheesyCam
@Louis - If you plan to use an LED light, then go with the HD2000. I don't know too much about the Nikon D7000, but I believe it doesn't really have the same full manual video controls like the Canon cameras.
@Emm. Sorry to disturb again, if possible, could you provide some feedback on my posting. Number 139.
@Emm - I played with it with a 50mm a good week before trying out the 17-40mm. Once I put that on it never had a consistent balance while I felt the 50mm flew just fine. I opted for the the HD2000.
@Jeffrey Robert - The Canon 5D Mark II + 50mm is about 2.6lbs. In my demo, I am pushing almost a full pound heavier than that, and the results show it was balanced. I'm not sure what other lenses you are trying to balance.
I just wanted to add my two cents. I had the HD1000 for 2 weeks and once i put an lens larger than a canon 50mm prime (on a 5DM2) it would never balance.
Hi Emm. Last question. Which stabilizer system would you recommend for the following setup:
Nikon D7000 with Sigma 10-20mm Wide Angle Lens
Small LED light (108 LED lights)
(i) H1D000 or HD2000?
(ii) Would you recommend the Nikon D7000?
Thank you so much!
@Louis - Yeah 10mm (approx 15mm on cropped cameras) is very wide for those interior shots. I really like the Tokina 11-16mm which can also be used on a Full Frame Canon 5D at 16mm. I also used an old GoPro + 5D Mark II for one Real Estate demo found here: httpss://cheesycam.com/real-estate-tour/
The latest GoPro HD Hero has multiple FOV (field of View) options and could be a good solution for real estate videos too. Here's an interesting combination that might work too
GoPro HD HERO2: Surf Edition (New Model)
Steadicam SMOOTHEE-GPROHRO Smoothee with GoPro Mount and Belt Clip
Thanks for this great demonstration.
I have question and hopefully somebody can assist me with this.
I would like to take real estate video tours and what thinking of buying the HD1000 Video Stabilizer.
(i) Which DSLR camera would you recommend?
(ii) How wide should the lens be? I heard that 10mm is the best of capture the entire content of a room. Which lens/make/model would you recommend.
@Shawn - Yes it will fly it.
Hi Emm. Aswsome site man... my go too everyday. I used my bro's flycam nano (dslr) over x mas and was able to balance my 5dmk2 and 24-105 fine. would this HD1000 be able to balance that setup. no accesories will be added just cam and 24-105 at first till i can get a wide prime. I was to stay as light and small as possible for travel but want to make sure i wouldny be over the limit. I liked the flycam but want the glide cam because of the easier balancing adjustments compared to the nano. thanks man.
@Sarah - The Glidecam removable stage is great for breaking down and packing up, but if you want to move camera from Glidecam to manfrotto tripod quickly, then you will need that quick release.
People who have purchased the HD2000 version on B&H have all recommended to also purchase the Manfrotto 577 quick release plate. Do you think this is valid or does the universal quick release work just fine?
Thank you for all your help.
I got a HD 1000 and am trying to balance a T2i and EF 17-40 L. You think this is too heavy? I eventually tried everything but the lenses makes the camera too forward heavy even with the sled all the way back. I finally tried putting 4 weights on back and 2 weights in front and it kind of balanced out but I still get minor wobbling at rest.
@Cedric Gall - I don't think i'd ever fly with a 70-200mm lens, that would be tricky. But sounds like you want to load things up so go for an HD2000 or HD4000.
So, if I have a 5D Mk II, with either a 50mm 1.4, a 17-40 or a 70-200 f/4, and
a DP4 EVF (link below).... which hd glidecam should I get?
@Dan - You might want to step up to the Glidecam HD2000.
Just purchased the Canon XA10 HD Pro Camcorder (1.71 lbs without accessories) - planning to fly this with a Glidecam HD1000 - accessories I plan to include are the larger battery for this camera (BP-827) and an AT875 Shotgun Mic. I figure I should be at or near 2.5 lbs with the everything attached.
1. Is the Glidecam HD1000 the right choice for this camcorder?
2. What quick release plate would you recommend for this? I've heard that the Manfrotto 323 RC2 is the way to go.
Thanks for all your help and this website!
@JC - It will help to carry the weight, but I'm not sure you'll enjoy doing it for a long day. It's a good option if you have to stop periodically for a few minutes. I only wear my vest for short periods and try to take it off as often as possible. It's hard on the back after many hours, even with just light weight.
Hi again Emm,
Thanks a lot for all yr replies, can't believe how helpful you are. I've finally decided to go for the Glidecam HD2000, the Merlin seems to be too sensitive and hard to use.
I have a very last question. Now I am using the cowboy studio shoulder support for stationary shoots and would like to carry just one thing, so that will be the Glidecam. Do you think the Glidecam body pod can replace the shoulder support? I know it doesn't work when you are moving but am thinking if the body pod is good to keep the camera still for stationary long shoots, like interviews without a tripod?
Also, is the flycam body pod the "same" as the glidecam one? I see it's cheaper...
Sorry to ask again but can't find any good review anywhere of the body pod.
Best and thanks again, man.
@JC - A simple lens cap can throw off the weight off significantly. When you starting adding weight upwards (microphone) it really throws the balance off like crazy. Anyways, the Merlin is the smallest you can go but is only rated at about 5-6lbs. It's a solid build, great quality. It's not easy to balance (properly) the first time. It will probably take you many hours of practicing.
Thanks for yr reply, Emm!
After reading all yr posts, I first was going to buy the Flycam Nano, then the HD1000, after yr reply to my question, the HD2000 and now I am doubting about the Merlin. There is something I don't get: you say in this Flycam nano test (https://vimeo.com/23978645) that can hold more weight (that set up is almost 1,5 Kg) and in another review that the HD1000 can hold more weight than the Nano... so don't get why the HD1000 wouldn't hold the 5d+24-105+Rode videomic pro (all set up is about 1,6 Kg).
In any case, I know you are not a big fan of the Merlin (I am not a big fan of its price either), but I need to go as light and small as possible and being able to hold the camera for a quite a while without vest or arm. Do you think the Merlin is best in that regard? Also I know (after reading yr posts) that all steadicams require a lot of training in order to get smooth shots but is the Merlin easy to balance at least?
Thanks again and sorry for this brick.
@JC - I think you'll need to step up to the HD2000 for that weight.
Great work, really really useful! Am thinking in buying the HD1000 to fly a 5D + 24-105 + Rode Videomic Pro. U think it will work?
Thanks and regards,
@Sau - The Glidecam HD2000 will work with your setup, and the 50mm F/1.4 at a narrow F-stop will get more in focus. The only thing you'll need to practice on is framing. The 50mm will have a narrower field of view than a wide angle lens like the 11-16mm. Practice practice practice..
Hello Emm,I'm currently using the 600d with a battery pack with a 50mm 1.4 and been planning to get the glidecam for a while.I'm getting an wide angle lens maybe the tokina 11-16 later this year but I'm desperate to try out the glidecam HD2000.Will it be possible to balance the glidecam hd 2000 with the setup I have now (maybe a quick release plate if that is necessary) or is it wise to wait for the lens and then invest the buck?
P.S : I'm ready too shoot on higher f-stops for the time being.
@David - Yes, the Glidecam HD1000 can carry a bit more weight than the Nano. Here's a sample with that same setup on the Nano httpss://cheesycam.com/nano-test-60d-24-105mm-f4l/
Hi Emm! Thanks for your quick response. How about 60d with 24-105L. Enough for hd1000!
Really appreciate you review on the glidecam. Keep up the great work! - david
@David - Your first setup would work fine on an HD1000, but if you plan on holding a mic in the future, you might want to look into the Glidecam HD2000.
I'm planning to use a Canon 60d and Tokina 12-24. Would this be enough for the glidecam hd1000? What if I plan to add a mic in the future? Thanks a lot!!!
@David B. - I would at times mount my Zoom H4n at the bottom and run a cord up to a Rode VideoMic Pro on the top.
Firstly, thank you for making these videos/blogs; they contain countless useful tips & tricks, and really do offer great advice to all skill-levels.
Recently I purchased the Glidecam HD-4000 which I will be using with a Canon 5d MkII, Canon EF 24-105mm and Zoom H4N.
Once I've attached the camera to the quick release plate it doesn't leave any space on there for the H4N. I'm interested in where you think is the best location to mount the sound recorder for ideal weight distribution, and how you would go about doing it.
Again, many thanks.
@mhl - Yes I think it would fly it just fine.
do you think the hd1000 would fly a 7D+tamron 17-50 well? the lens is 15oz.
@Matt - The Express35 Event rig is priced well, good ergonomics, and balanced well.
@ Emm - Thanks for letting me know. Is there a reasonably priced one or more you can recommend that I take a look at?
@Matt - You won't be doing any focusing with this stabilizer. It's not really built for something like that. You basically set the aperture to have as much in focus as possible and fly it. Sounds like you might be better with a balanced shoulder rig. It won't have that same flying look, but it will look better than hand held.
Thanks for the great video! Questions for you, as I'd love to have your (or anyone else's for that matter) opinion. I'm shooting a band on tour. Seems like this might be the model for me. You don't need any extra rigging, right? Just hand holding this piece? I've shot a lot of their shows before, and I use a T2i with a 24-105 f4. I'm planning to get a 5D in the future. The image stabilizer is great, and I've shot some great stuff. But now that I think something like this would be a big improvement. Do you think that the weight would be alright? do you have trouble focusing with one hand holding on to the rig? Do you think the 1000 would be best, given that I'm possibly getting a 5D in the future, but also with the weight of the 24-105? Thanks again, I do appreciate it.
I like the video, could you please tell me the name of the band or the song which is playing on that video...it's really good.....
Thanks in advance,
@MikeB - Sounds like you should go with the HD2000. The HD2000 won't do well with very light set ups, so If you're flying a very light setup, simply add a few weights to the top.
Hi,loving your site! I just got a 60D with 18-200mm, I was wondering which Glidecam is best suited. I want to keep it light if possible, but may add a mic to it. 1000? 2000? What about for just the camera and no mic?
Hello, nice video...could you tell me please what is the name of the band and also the name of the song which is playing in the video ?...thanks...
@Lex - No problem. It's just a hot shoe mount with threads. It will work to hold a few Glidecam weights to the top. Don't over do it if you're not use a 7D or 5D Mark II (they have magnesium metal frames).
lol, no I read both articles. But I guess I just didn't understand. I'm just trying to grasp a simple concept I suppose. lol. I didn't quite get how you get it to stay attached and what not. But I think I got it now. I'm at work, so I couldn't see the videos and some of the pictures as well. Thanx again for the much needed help.
@Lex - LOL, I guess you didn't catch the line where I mentioned 'read carefully'. The last sentence in the article shows you what you need to mount the weights. Here's the other article httpss://cheesycam.com/mounting-zoom-h1-on-camera/
That's just awesome. Thanks Emm. I appreciate the help, and quick response. I have a video shoot on Sunday. Mostly handheld setups and some tripod work. But I wanted to test out the Glidecam as well, and maybe get a couple good shots with it.
What particular mount did you use in that HD4000 set up? I see the pictures. With spare weights, looks like just what I need. Is it just the mount I need for that, or is there an accessory or attachment needed to have it work properly? Again, I really appreciate the help. Very good site indeed. Glad I found it. I see what my next purchases need to be.
@Lex - The lens you are using is featherweight. If you want to add more weights, you can use add a few things to the top of the camera. Since it sounds like you have spare weights, this article is what you need. Read carefully, hope it helps httpss://cheesycam.com/canon-60d-video-stabilizer-first-flight-glidecam-hd4000/
I wasn't sure if that was the problem. I remember researching for which one to buy. The HD1000 seemed like it wouldn't be enough stabilizer for the camera, so opted for the 2000. Also, the Glidecam reps did a lot of demonstrations with the Glidecam HD 2000 and only used a 7D camera. Only thing additional was the lens, and I think maybe a hood and it was always balanced. So that ultimately helped in my decision.
But I'm working on getting the manfrotto quick release plate, but won't have that anytime in the next week or so. Also, I've been looking into getting a Vello BG-C4 battery grip for the camera. Again, also not soon enough. Is there a temporary way to increase the weight for the stabilizer for now? Can I somehow use the extra baseplate weights and add them to the top or anything like that? Or will that not be enough.
@Lex - You've got too much stabilizer for the camera. That's a fairly large stabilizer for the setup you are using. This is why I use the HD1000 for a small setup. You want the stabilizer to carry it's heaviest load to put a bit of weight on the bearing. I think you'll have more luck if you stack more weight to your top. Add a quick release plate and maybe a battery grip to your camera. The HD2000 is too big for your setup to control easily.
It also takes plenty of practice and it's always a two handed operation to fly it. One hand to carry, the other one to control the panning.
Don't know if this thread is still on going. But I've been trying to balance the 7D on my glidecam HD 2000 for a few weeks now. I've become pretty good at tweaking things pretty fast, but its never perfectly balanced. When I pick it up from a flat surface, it stays pretty still. If I move it side to side, front to back really quickly, it also tends to stay pretty still for the most part.
But when I actually try to walk with it or move with it, it tends to move. If I walk fast, then stop abruptly , it has a very slight pendulum swing. It should stay completely still when coming to a stop right? I can't get that to happen at all. The pole/ lower sled is as high as it can go. Im only using two weights, one on each end. The weight plates are extended all the way in. The drop time is about 2.5 seconds.
I'm not sure what else to tweak to make this thing work. Adding more weights would make it more bottom heavy. Extending the sled all the way down would make it more bottom heavy as well I feel. Any tips? It might have been a while since you've messed around with the glidecam, but I really need help on this one. The lens im using is a canon Normal EF 55mm f/1.8 with a circular polarizer.
@Emm - Thanks very much for checking this... I'll wait your reply patiently 😀
@CheeseDog - Let me check, it's been a while since I've balanced the HD1000.
Thanks for this demo! Awesome. I also own a HD-1000 with 5DMk2 + Canon 50mm 1.4 lens.
I noticed in your previous comment that you "didnt" use all the counterweights? But in the video it looked like you had 4 counterweights per side? I only had 8 in my glidecam package. Can you confirm that you used 4 counterweights per side?
Even though I have a different lens, the sigma 20mm isnt much difference in weight. Just wondering if you could please do a run through of your setup:
1. How many base counterweights per side?
2. Is the weight adjustment pushed tight upto centre shaft?
3. Shaft length adjustment, how long is the rod from top to base?
4. The hole use to fix your 5DMk2 to the base plate?
Just wanted some “ball park” adjustments to help me get my HD-1000 "close" for my own canon5dmk2 setup. I've tweaked my setup using the manufactures website but not getting as good results.
PS - moderators please use this message and delete my previous post. thank you
OK, thanks for your work here!
@diego - The HD1000 should do fine. I didn't use up all the counterweights, so there's still room to fly a bit more.
a great demonstration
i'm looking for the lightest and smallest kit for my 5dii
i'd use the 35 1.4 which weighs as your 20mm, perhaps a lighter micro
is the hd1000 the best solution?or i should get the 2000?
thanks and sorry for my english!!
@James - James, I think I did at some point. Not sure if I actually posted something here. Let me see if I can find it.
“You guys want to see the T2i on the HD1000? I’ll balance it for you guys and do a video. Maybe even write down the settings i’m using. I’ll balance it with the 18-55mm since pretty much everyone has that lens.” August 3rd, 2010.
Did you manage to do this?
@david - The Flycam should be able to that weight, but I wouldn't suggest using a battery grip.
@david - You could probably place it on the lower sled instead of using weights.
Looking more at your vids, forget my last question.
After re-thinking what I'll be using the stabilizer for - I have a different enquiry: do you think the Flycam Nano could handle a 7D and the Zeiss 28mm ZE? - 1350 grams all up.
(and by the way that video in the studio, where you gave the Nano a serious workout, was great operating - wish we lived in the same city/country. cheers:)
I read further up the line that you need two hands to operate this rig, therefore you couldn't hand-hold the monitor, could you?
In your mind, could there be a way to mount the monitor onto the stabilizer, somewhere, that allowed for viewing, but didn't effect balance too greatly to make it counter productive?
@david - I'm not sure it could handle a monitor from the hotshoe. It's not just about adding the weight, but adding the weight too far up changes dramatically. The same monitor added closer to the gimbal would be different than adding it on top of the camera.
Hi Emm - great work you're doing here for everyone.
Quick question: Do you think a HD2000 would handle a a 5d (or7D), with a Zeiss 24mm and a 5" Swift monitor off the hot-shoe?
I hope you're still around! I'm considering the HD2000 for my Canon 5D Mark II. The only problem is that while normally I won't need to mount anything else, I can foresee future events like weddings where I'll need to add a mic, LED lights and a battery.
My only worry is that when I load up all that gear, is it going to be way too much for the 2000 and I should get the 4000? But what if I don't have the gear -- then is the 4000 overkill?
Thanks for your help!
@Zach - I don't use a monitor with my Steadicam / Glidecam setup. The HD4000 us usually pretty overkill for just the camera, so in that case, I usually add more weight to the top via Microphones, LED lights, Battery Grip, etc. It flies better when it's fairly loaded up.
Wow... your site is great!!!
I have a 5Dmkii and yesterday picked up a used 4000 Pro with vest. I was thinking a 2000 maybe made more sense, but the 4000 was a pretty good deal so I went for it. I then spent an hour trying to balance it, and it's still pretty wobbly. I'm pretty (very actually) new to the stabilizer world. Do you think the 4000 is huge overkill... I have read that I should maybe take out a spring. Have you used this 5D/Glide combo? 2 or 3 weights per side? I currently have my 24-70 on which makes it pretty heavy. Would likely rent a small 20mm prime with. Also, what monitor would you recommend.. Thanks Emm, again, great site!
I've been checking your site for a while now. I just got the 60d and wanted to get a glidecam. Are you going to have a sample video for the 2000 hd or is it just the same as the 1000 but bigger. Also I know I can follow the link to order the glidecam from your site, but can you also have a link for the quick release plate. This would make it easier, since I don't know which one to get.
@Pepe - Balancing and flying is possible, pulling focus at the same time is another story.
I know, but with a wireless ff I need someone else to do it, I'm looking for a solution whereI can pull it on my own.
Going back to the rig, do you think it would be possible to balance and fly a setup similar to the one in the pic ?
@Pepe - With a wireless follow focus system you can pull focus on a steadicam.
Actually let me reframe the question, do you think that's a realistic
setup to pull focus while flying ?
Do you think this wired focus set up would work on a glidecam HD2000 ?
@Peter - yeah. Check this out too httpss://cheesycam.com/express35-fig-rig-config-endmedia/
hi emm, thanks a lot for this really fast answer. okay, but my problem is, that i often film in dark scenes, where i can't handle it just with the f-stop. but i want to be "free" like with a glidecam. for what should i look out, than? more on something like this?
there i can do the focus manually, but can't run like with ta glidecam. am i right?
@Peter - For this video it's all about the F-Stop, the Wide Lens + Minimum focal distance of the lens. It's way more complicated for a DSLR to do DOF while moving that fast.
hi emm! first of all thanks a lot for this site! nice information. my question is, how can i foucs with the HD1000 while i film with a 5d mark2 and for example 50mm...
i mean, can i work with something like a follow focus or so?
in your video the focus is always on point. still when the girl ride here skateboard. how did you do this?
not only with the f-stop, right?
ps: sorry for the bad english 😉
@Pepe - Sounds like it would be too heavy for that type of setup.
I just found out about your website, what a great source of information, thanks
Question, in your opinion do you think the HD-1000 would work with a wired follow focus from JAG35 and a Marshall 5" on the hot shoe mount to pull focus ?
@Hop - I would get a quick release adapter. it would raise the camera and make it easy to dismount too.
Thanks for your great video. I went ahead and bought the 1000 vs 2000 for my 7D and EF-S 17-55. Now I'm posed with another problem as I don't have primes. The hood will cause problems when mounting camera to HD1000. What's the best way to remedy this? I saw some videos suggesting to raise the camera up with cork like padding, but wanted to get your feedback on any better solution.
@Paul - I don't think it will hold up with the microphone well. You might want to consider the HD2000 or 2000 Pro at least.
Hi Emm, I have a Nikon D7000 and a 50mm lens with a rode mic. Will I be able to use the Glidecam hd1000 with my setup? Thanks
I'm thinking about getting a Glidecam
I want to get the HD-2000, do you think the HD-4000 would be a better option?
I plan on using a 7D + Batterygrip + Tokina 11-16(heaviest lens I own) + POSSIBLY a Zoom H4N.. do you think this setup will be light enough for the HD-2000? Please let me know from your experience!
The Hague cannot balance the NEX. I tried.
Having revisited your HD2000, I think I better get a HD2000+Tiffen stick(as kind of vest's cheap replacement).
But for my Nex, do you think Hague is ok? It would be an ideal travelling kit. Thanks.
I've never used the brace, but i'm sure it will help. Anything helps. For the quick release, if you have a fluid head already you should get a QR that matches. Then you can go from Glidecam straight to Tripod. If you don't then the Manfrotto 323 RC2 Quick Release Plate
is pretty good.
Hi Emm....great stuff! I ordered the HD1000 for use with my 7D and Canon 24 f/1.8.
1. Do you recommend the forearm brace? I am shooting a music video, so the shots are all canned/planned. But, later this month, I've been asked to film a band during a corporate event, so that will be live and I will be using the glidecam setup for a longer time.
2. What quick release plate would you recommend for the HD1000?
I think the HD1000 is easier to use, but not as light or compact. The HD1000 can fly a 5DM2 (no battery pack), but you may need to find a lighter prime lens. The 24-70mm is pretty heavy.
There are many good rigs you can buy like from Express35 or Jag35.com, but Gini has eBay auctions which if you're very patient you can find win an auction for very very cheap.
Sorry, one more question. How about WONDLAN? Thanks!
Hi Emm, thx for the site. I read it daily!
Tom: Thx for the post. I have a 60d and just waiting for my tokina 11-16mm. So, if you have any more pointers and weights specification, please post here.
All: I find this balance video pretty helpful:
Thanks for the great review!
I am also looking for "Tiffen Steady Stick & Glidecam HD1000" combination and hopefully to have some advice from you.
My equipment set:
1) Nex + std zoom
2) 5D2 + 24-70L or 135L (No lighting or mic required)
Do you think HD1000 works for both sets?
Honestly, I really like the light weight of Merlin. Is it actually lighter and easy to use than HD1000?
@Peter - sorry I haven't. I didn't get a whole bunch of response, and there was plenty of videos on YouTube already showing how to balance a Glidecam. When I have time I can get back to it.
Emm: "You guys want to see the T2i on the HD1000? I’ll balance it for you guys and do a video. Maybe even write down the settings i’m using. I’ll balance it with the 18-55mm since pretty much everyone has that lens." August 3rd.
Did you ever do this? I would love to see the video!
One last update before some real field testing! A quick trip to Home Depot has made things easier! Picked up a large, extremely flat rubber washer that I placed between the camera and the mounting plate -- this holds the camera in more securely, and fixed the slight drift it gave me after moving it quickly (Neoprene Fender Washer). Also picked up a thumb screw to make getting it on and off the plate much quicker.
Also bought a few longer threaded screws for the weight section, allowing me to add additional washers if I add a microphone to the top of the camera, and/or adjust the weight a little more finely (picked up a few different size washers).
These extra tweaks have ironed out most of the rotation and pendulum issues, but it's still a bit more wobbly then I'd like, and does tend to spin a bit if I don't hold it steady. Still, it's already smoother than walking with my BodyPod!
Hah! I think I've found part of the problem. Turns out the top plate is a tiny bit crooked, skewing the front and back of the camera. I think this might be causing a bit of the rotation I'm seeing, as it's slightly angling the camera. I'll see if I can't straighten the platform alignment, otherwise, I can probably slightly shift the camera to compensate for the misalignment. The unit also doesn't quite sit level on my table (which I've used a bubble level to confirm), so that's making this a bit tricky too. For ~330, the machining on my unit could stand to be a bit better! 😉 I may also need to get some grip substance on the quick release platform, as the camera does shift a little bit.
It's still behaving oddly, but adjusting for this seems to be reducing spin and wobble (it still spins, but it doesn't do 360s anymore!). Still has a bit of top heaviness, so I'll need to move the rod out more it seems (have at least three-four more inches of give left). I'm still pushing to get this looking precisely like it does above, as weight wise, my setup is almost identical, less a 100 grams or so! (This size of this thing is great, going up to a 2000HD would really hurt the 'walkability' of the setup!).
Thanks again for the help! Didn't realize how much fine tuning these things need!
If you are swinging it side to side, then it's still not balanced. It is either top heavy or bottom heavy. As you swing it to the side, which (top or bottom) continues to move with inertia when you stop? If you swing it to the side and the top continues forward, then it's top heavy. If the bottom swings out from under, then it's bottom heavy. Again, instead of adding or removing weights, move the sled up or down on the post. Moving it down adds weight to the bottom, moving it up removes weight from the bottom.
There should be no spin if you use two hands. You can't use these stabilizer with just one hand alone. It's designed to spin very freely, but you have to control it with two hands.
Oh, just wanted to add, great site! Really making the switch to using DSLR cams for video a lot more smooth!
Fast response! I've been shooting for awhile, but I am TOTALLY new to these stabilizers, so I could definitely be doing it really really wrong! 😉
I've been playing with it all day (and watching a whole bunch of youtube videos!) and I should clarify a little. I've finally gotten it steady on the first 'pick up' test. I.e. after picking it up from a flat surface, it stays pretty still, without tipping forward/back or left/right. But, as soon as I move it side to side it starts to 'pendulum' but, more worryingly, the camera 'spins' or 'rotates' (the whole unit spins around the gimbal).
On the drop test, it takes just about exactly two seconds, but it continues to pendulum and spin after it hits bottom, along both the x and y-axes.
I've managed to reign in the pendulum-effect a little bit, but it still swings way too much to be useful, and the spin is really disconcerting. Also, the bottom clamp on the main post holds the pipe pretty well vertically, but the pipe still twists inside the socket, no matter how hard I turn the little knob.
Thanks for the help, and I'll keep plugging away at it!
@Tom - LOL, you have to really understand how to balance any stabilizer. If the unit is wobbling, then you are either too top heavy or bottom heavy. First, did you do the 'drop time' test. It should fall slowly, but should be 'very very slightly bottom heavy'. It only takes ounces to throw everything off balance. Example: If you even put your lens cap on, balance is all off. I suggest you take off a camera strap too if you have it on.
Get the unit down to just the camera and the lens, no battery pack if possible to lighten things up. Add just enough weight to the bottom so that the 'drop time test' is about 2 seconds. If the stabilizer still rocks sideways or back and forth, then the unit could be top heavy or bottom heavy. DO NOT ADD MORE WEIGHTS. Just move the lower sled higher or lower (very very slightly. Not even inches of movement). Moving the lower sled higher means it will lighten the lower weight ratio. Moving the sled lower means it's will make the lower weight ratio increase. Practice practice practice. Every stabilizer out there is a 'two handed' control not one. There's no way the middle column can rotate if you have a finger on it.
There's some good Glidecam Balance videos on YouTube you can refer to about how to balance it.
Picked up a Glidecam 1000HD yesterday, and cannot balance it AT ALL with a 60D + Tokina 11-16. Total weight of the setup is about ~150g less than the 5DMKII + Sigma in the video above, which looks great (and convinced me to go with the 1000HD). No matter what I do, it wobbles back and forth, and the entire column rotates if I try to hold it steady. Walking around gives me more movement than simply hand holding the camera. Been at it for a good few hours, and still no progress. Further, if I put the base at a similar distance as in Emm's video, the whole unit starts to flip over.
Am I doing something wrong here, or did Emm just get reaaaally lucky with his particular 1000HD? As the 1000HD baaarely fit into my price range (was looking at the Hauge DSLR until I came across this test) I'm not sure moving up to the 2000HD is much of an option.
If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears! (I've a week to return the unit to Adorama). Thanks guys!
Unfinished DIY PVC Bearing Gimbal » CheesyCam
Thanks a bunch Emm! Will most likely get the HD 2000 if that's the case. Just have to wait for the local shops to get them in stock.
Oh btw, do you mind if i run a few quick questions by you? Just in case you have the extra time to humor me. 🙂 Anywho, on to the queries.
I'm trying my hand at wedding videography these days. Just something to do during the weekends and earn a little extra dough on the side. I currently have a 550D, 18-55 IS kit lens and a 50mm 1.8. What do you reckon would be the minimum setup i could get away with for low-budget to medium budget weddings?
I was hoping to add a Zoom H4N, Glidecam HD 2000 and a standard monopod to my arsenal. Anything else you think I should add? Like maybe a slightly better zoom lens than the kit lens I have now. I was thinking that the 24-70mm might be too heavy. Would ppreciate any comments you may have. Thanks in advance!
P.S. I'd just be offering the couple a 10-20min AVP of the wedding. (highlights of preparation of bride and groom, ceremony and reception)
OOh, don't know about grip. Moving weight 'higher' above the gimbal changes the weight dramatically. If the weight was closer to the gimbal it would have a smaller effect. The HD2000 would be the best bet for that setup.
Hi Emm... how do you think the Glidecam HD 1000 would handle a 550D+kit lens(18-55)+battery grip?
i'm really hoping it can handle it, since the 1000 is cheaper than the 2000.
I think it could handle it. The post can be further extended making it more 'bottom heavy' without adding more weights to the bottom. I don't suggest battery grip though...
Hey Emm, do you think adding a quick-release adapter would not allow me to use a 7d with the same 20mm sigma lens? as too much weight is added?
Would love to know how to balance 550d on 1000HD! Please let us know when your tutorial is up-! Thanks Emm!
Yes you have to rebalance. Most of us will fly only one lens since you can't zoom or focus easily without losing stabilization.
I use at least three lenses for video with my Canon 7D. Does a Glidecam or a Steadicam make sense if I have to rebalance every time I switch lens?
LOL, sorry I haven't been busy and now i'm in Maui.
Did you ever do this? Small donation if you did! Thanks!
You guys want to see the T2i on the HD1000? I’ll balance it for you guys and do a video. Maybe even write down the settings i’m using. I’ll balance it with the 18-55mm since pretty much everyone has that lens.
Yes the Glidecams in my experience work best when loaded up. If you only plan on flying a small amount you might be better with the HD1000. If you plan on putting a 2 lb camera + other stuff, then you should move up.
I was wondering if i purchase the hd 2000 and my cam is weighs less than 2 pounds, will it have any effect?
yes please to a video on how to balance the hd-1000 for the t2i 🙂 just got my HD1000 in the mail and would love some tips on getting it set up right.
I want to get it balanced for a canon 1.8 prime...or stock lens is fine! let us know!
Glidecam HD2000 Review – DSLRUniversity » CheesyCam
Varizoom Steadicam Stabilizer Vest – Review (lack of) » CheesyCam
Hey EMM -
Great Site. Thanks for all the great info. I too would love to see a tutorial on how to balance the Glider1000 with a 7D... is it in the works? All Best!
Hey Emm,..yes i was just thinking of writing to see if you would do a tutorial video on balancing it for the t2i. I just got my HD-1000 today based on this review. It is really nicely built. I have the balance almost perfect but for one last thing : pendulum when stopping after a walk.
So yeah, it would be great if you did a tut on that
Varizoom Sportster Vest – Does it Hold Up? » CheesyCam
Hi, the song is 'The All-American Rejects - Move Along'.
I was surprised at an effect of Glidecam HD1000!
I make around 1,000 dollars want me in Japan…
By the way, though the story is got off; the music to play in the latter half of anyone is music how?
But really want it, and there be it; Glidecam HD1000!
You guys want to see the T2i on the HD1000? I'll balance it for you guys and do a video. Maybe even write down the settings i'm using. I'll balance it with the 18-55mm since pretty much everyone has that lens.
I would love to see a link to a good video showing how to balance for our canon hd dslr's (t2i here) also!! about to bite the bullet and buy one.
We received our 1000HD at the office today and have been having trouble balancing it. I've tried searching youtube and just generally googling but haven't been able to find anything ultimately helpful in terms of setup.
Feel like pointing a noob in the right direction? 🙂
Or maybe a tutorial video 😉
Flycam Nano Video Shows Up » CheesyCam
yes it will fly with a grip too.
DO you think it's possible to add a battery grip to the 5d/7d and still fly it on the this glidecam hd1000?
That's what i was waiting for, look fantastic, i really want to buy one of this. As you answered me before the HD version of the glidecam is way easier to balance, so its easy to create a 'preset' for two different lenses (maybe write the number down) and mount and balance very fast the times you gonna use it, right ?! So, you think it's better the glidecam than the merlin ? i have a t2i, you think i'll be able to put maybe a liliput lcd in the bottom part of the glidecam and still be able to balance it right ?! Thanks man.
Wow normally when flying a DSLR you won't have the ability to touch the lens for zoom or focus. Also when zoomed in, movements are highly exaggerated. Masking movements are done with wider lenses so it appears to almost float or stand still. If you really had to though, I would say the HD4000.
Which unit do you think could fly a T2i & a Canon 70-200 2.8?
The vest might look overkill on such a small stabilizer. It's not loaded up so you can operate it by hand. I can do a video, but vests don't further stabilize. The stabilization comes from the Glidecam, the vest just helps carry the weight.
Wow to have a stabilizer in hand for a couple of hours is a task. You'll be feeling it the next day. If you have to fly all day, I suggest getting body support or a vest.
No Tokina and 7D should be fine. Although I used all the available weights, I didn't lower the base far down. Lowering the base makes it more bottom heavy (without adding weights).
Would a 7D with a Tokina 11-16 be too heavy for the HD1000? Would I have to upgrade to HD2000?
Thanks for the answer, so I will rather focus on flycam nano, however one more question which type of stabilizer is more comfortable to use long-term. I am going to a road trip and I would like to have some nice shots, however I need to count with the fact that I will have it in my hands for couple hours...
Did you use all your weights? Will you be testing it with your vest/arm? I would like to see a review with that setup. Thanks!!! Keep up the good work.
I use F/6.3 or more to keep everything in focus. No shallow depth of field.
Wow! Thanks for posting that Emm. Nice, steady work! I think the quality of this rig shows here in your video. After watching the MMC and Indie stabilizers and now this, this is hands down what I'm saving my money for. Seems much easier to balance and much more flexibility and steadiness than the others, and in my opinion well worth the extra money. Thanks so much! Looking forward to anymore insights/tests you have with this equipment.
@ Ryan - The significant difference with the HD models is the 'Micro' adjustment knobs for the stage and also with the base plate weight system. Here's a look at the Micro adjustment on the stage https://vimeo.com/10712216
Hey so when you are moving in and out your shots are pretty focused, are you using automatic focus or what lens are you using. I cannot do that with the 50mm lens? I am new so this may be a dumb question?
@ Domestos - It's not the best setting, but I knew I would be changing exposures. I had it in Manual mode at F/6.3.
@ Fred - No, i've been using several different stabilizers, and pretty used to figuring out where my problem is and adjusting for it.
@Hajlender - The Merlin, Hague, and Indie cannot do tilts to point up or down like the Glidecam. They are smaller, but not has flexible as the Glidecam.
What type of stab. system are you prefer?
This type as the glidecam (I am looking for the Flycam Nano) or the type like the Merlin (Indie or MMC)?
Are there any significant differences? Resp. pros and cons?
Great review. Did it take you long to setup/balance?
I often have a little trouble getting it spot on, and I thought it was because I was using a heavy 7D...
Hello, what camera settings have you used for this movie ? manual mode ? aperture priority ? aperture ?
Thank you for your answer
What's your thoughts on the Glidecam 1000? I'm talking the NON HD one. I have one from 1999 I used for some time with a sony cam and then couldn't use it when we upgraded our DV cams to XL2's.... Years later get the 5D Mark II and brought it back from the dead. Seems to work good for me. Does the HD 1000 have any enhancements that make the stabilization that much better than its predecessor?